Day 14 – Amazon Meets a Spice Girl

It was a long, but uneventful journey to Jodhpur from Jaipur. When we arrived at our hotel, we were met very warmly by all including the Hotel Manager. He couldn’t believe that we got a room in his hotel and was very apologetic that he couldn’t give us an upgrade (customary for us in Marriot/Starwood properties). It seems a Hindu clan had tried to block book the whole hotel for a wedding and only because of our Starwood history, were prevented from taking our room away. There we were, the only white people in the hotel and were rock stars for the staff. We would do things like tip, take the stairs on occasion, knew how to operate an elevator, were polite and said thank you constantly.

We barely had time to get settled when Ajay returned to take us to meet our guide for the next 2 days and get us to the market in the center of the old city. Here we roamed all over viewing bling, colourful clothing (sari’s) and food and spices and all manner of goods.

Then we happened upon a spice store made famous by lofty ratings in travel blogs such as Tripadvisor and the BBC. Mohanlal Verhomal Spices is a company founded by a father of 7 daughters selling a wide variety of spices, spice blends and teas out of a hole in the wall in the clock tower market. When the father fell ill and died a few years ago, the eldest of the daughters decided to shun offers for the business and carry on with their dads legacy. BBC did a documentary on the family labelling them “the Spice Girls of India.

It didn’t take Amazon long to locate the shop where she and one of the eldest daughters became fast friends. Over a cup of Masala Chai Tea Latte, we were given an overview of the complete product line. Within 15 minutes we purchased a large number of spices before saying goodbye.

Making our way to the market entrance, we were treated to a horse carriage ride out of town to a prearranged spot where Ajay awaited us to take us back to our room.

After cleaning up, we went to the dining room as the only guests for the evening (the Hindu wedding was elsewhere). We were swarmed and feted by a very underworked crew of waitstaff, anxious to please and hear of our story. Amazon was only too happy to oblige while I drank beer. We had a wonderful meal, sharing 2 different (non veg) curries with rice and naan. Following this, the chef sought us out for a critique of the meal (his only 2 orders of the night). We chatted so long, that Amazon went back to the room and I awaited the bill. I’m sure it took so long because when I left the large room would be totally deserted.

When I got back to the room, Amazon was asleep in bed and I joined her. We were warned to be up for breakfast before 8 o’clock as the wedding party had breakfast included with their rooms and were not expected to give up a free meal.